Paris AW10 | Day Four

Oh so I get it now, apologies everyone, I'm blonde. I read a month or so ago that Collette Dinnigan wasn't showing in Paris and couldn't believe my own eyes. You have to wait to receive an invitation to show in Paris and she's been on the calendar for over a decade now. For her to challenge that, I thought it a little strange. But it turns out it was just the lady in question herself that was a no show, the garments were on full display and couldn't have been more succinct with each other, giving many options for many body shapes and desired styles alike.
Distorting all sense of reality, Comme Des Garcons AW10 collection resembled that of a designer aircraft flotation device. All I can say is I'll be on that next flight, it's completely off beat and that's what keeps things interesting.
Sophia Kokasalaki, you're back in the game. Welcome back, you're like a dear old friend. Your twists and draped necklines were pure Kokosalaki elegance and now all we have to do is get The Corner Shop open in Rozelle again so I can pick up wonderful pants from her label again.
I was getting a little worried at Viktor & Rolf, where were all their outrageous visual feasts? Growing accustomed to the fact that these boys make garments out of pillows and doonas or stage lights and the like, giving us such a run of relatively wearable outfits was almost just as shocking. The best was saved til last though, cue giant coat to unveil the sculpture.
Master of creation, Jean Paul Gaultier took us on a cultural journey with references from France to Russia and many in between. His vision is unstoppable and a force unto it's own, colour and textures coming together to give us a show that was fresh and unique.

Paris AW10 | Day Three

The artistic direction with which is always carefully considered at Issey Miyake was underlying during the roll out of a surprisingly commercial collection for this revolutionary designer. It took me by surprise that a suited reference was evident among the blown out silhouette's on show but colour, as always, played a definitive feature.
Isabel Marant also certainly shifted her aesthetic from what we're used to, cropped leather pants and denim cowgirl styled shirts couldn't be further from the soft connotations I once associated with the brand. When change is a s good as a holiday, maybe there's motivation behind the decision, but I don't really know how this will work when others have already perfected this look. Find something you do well and stick to it, isn't that the rule?
I couldn't shake the feeling of having been there, done that when surveying the Veronique Leroy collection. The same can be said for Jasmine De Milo's show too. One was all very beige and red, with shapes from last season, and the other was glam rock sent out like an unsuccessful celebrity design collaboration. Not the best note to close on, but on the plus side, things can only get better.

Paris AW10 | Day Three

When nothing else will do, go for shock value. That's exactly what Vivienne Westwood did when she sent out men for her Autumn Winter 2010 Womenswear collection. And when the models weren't of the male variety, she put mustaches on the girls, go figure.
If you would prefer to play it a little more safe, Vionnet gave the most delightful selection of cocktail dresses, once getting past all the busy black designs at the beginning of the collection.
Just when I thought Roland Mouret couldn't get any better, he goes and shows that he is definitely switched on and at the ready when it comes to carefully editing and presenting exactly what is appropriate for the season. Every single piece directly continues the conversation he starts in the previous look and takes us right through the narrative in easily and uniformed fashion.
With so much controversy surrounding the Maison Martin Margiela Spring Summer show, this current Autumn Winter one made for an incredibly classic yet fashion forward surprise. Given that there was always a different idea taken to boundaries distant from commercial aspects for this brand, the show gave us an interesting waistline, as though it was hoop like and miraculously hovering over the hips of wearers. Clever and captivating, we can't let this visionary design house fold.
Alber Elbaz completely shook things up at Lanvin, where the success of the pink cocktail numbers from Spring Summer are still firmly planted in our minds. He gave a spectacular show for the older Lanvin client and wasn't afraid to take risks when it came to fabric choice and embellishment, love it.

Paris AW10 | Day Two

Balenciaga is as modern as ever, pastels and blocks effectively building the aesthetic that has come into it's own under Nicolas Ghesquière's precision like steering. He shows us that perhaps the news has so much of an impact on our daily lives now, it can blazon across our chests demanding full attention.
The Napoleon Apartments or perhaps The Palace of Versaille influence Balmain's undeniably rocked baroque collection. There was nothing subtle about it, and Balmain is set for another season as a leader of the trends, attention to shoulders and all.
When Rick Owens cuts a fine figure that's not quite to the body, he still sets the pace for a collection that can be spotted as his a million miles away. Dramatic eyes and a tribal stocking ensure he paces the urban setting to a very distinct tribal beat he can claim all his own.
Shifting to a strong floral theme at Nina Ricci keeps the mood feminine and light. Even dramatic black lace and floral can't shake that prettiness sweeping the Nina Ricci runway. It's not for everyone, but a coherent collection none the less.
Saving the best for last though, John Galliano jumped right back on that horse and kept riding that equestrian theme. This Christian Dior mainline collection was however undeniably more adaptable than that of Christian Dior Couture. Track side or mounted, his coats and draped chiffon were the perfect match against jodhpurs and thigh high suede boots. Eliza Doolittle would still find something suitable.

Country Road

With high regard for the tactical measures the design team at Country Road have taken, closer attention to the needs and wants of the Country Road customers have in my opinion most definitely been met. Hearing your mum say that she used to love wearing Country Road when she was your age shows that launching Trenery was a very smart business move indeed. Now there's something for everyone one, and at the end of the day it's all smiles. I have to admit I adored opening the pages of Country Road's newest catalog and finding many covetable pieces exactly appropriate for work. This brand did it first, and Witchery Men can only follow in smaller footsteps, but it's nice to know that with the introduction of a little competition, what was turning out to be a stale environment is once again brimming with modern ideas. They get the basics right, and when all else fails we're instructed to go back to basics. Fashion is spectacle. Clothing is practical. It certainly isn't boring in this case and what better way to support Australian brands than with a healthy dose of fresh ideas. Smiles all round.

Paris AW10 | Day One

Giles Deacon bought Karolina back, Giles Deacon bought Karolina back. I have to say though, I couldn't help but notice the strong reference to Margaret Thatcher, can anyone else see it or am I going mad? The hair was high, the clothes were all about ladies who lunch. He raided Victoira's closet for Alessandra Ambrosio too, so Karolina wasn't alone. Rosie Huntington-Whitely, Carmen Kass and Jessica Stam covered up their smalls for Giles as well, they're all still angels though, never fear. His collection let the details to the talking, strong and concise lines will give these garments legs.
Gareth Pugh on the other hand gave us bat-mobiles in the form of clothing. Black leather. I'm highly impressed by his ability to finish leather in such a difficult and incredibly effective way. So sharp were his seams and hem lines that hours and hours of perfection must still be an understatement regarding his AW10 garments.
Supremely elegant and very close to Bottega Veneta and Calvin Klein's aesthetic sensibilities, Rue de Mail sent out all the rules for success in colour and shape but didn't really come up with any new ideas. We've seen many a collection much like this before, but that's not to say that we regard it any less, it's still of the moment and close on trend to what's happening in international fashion.
When it comes to sport and style all in one, Anne Valerie Hash provides all the correct principles and executes them with apblomb. I was excited to see Bianca Balti back on her catwalk too.
To close though, Rochas took a complete side step from the look I have grown to associate with them. It was all 60's chic and to be honest, I wasn't conjuring such complimentary feelings towards the collection. Leave it to the others who have this look down pat, like Karen Walker or Louis Vuitton.
Postcards from Paris.

Dries Van Noten AW10

And so we're handing the reigns over to one of my top two cities, Paris. And what better way to start than with one of my top two designers. Dries Van Noten gave us the most fabulous trousers and coats in menswear inspired fabrics and pinstripes. Who knew giving us a cropped and tailored leg could make us so happy, it just works into the theme so well. It's a shape that's shifted from the harem slouch we've seen so much of in seasons past, what a delight to witness.
That word 'utility' has been thrown around a bit this AW10 show season, and Dries Van Noten is bang on trend here, with chic and easy lines, cotton and felt galore. This collection will fall easily into step with feminine and masculine styles that may alrady be dominating your wardrobe.
He didn't give us a varied and extravagant artists palette, but why should he? He successfully gave us a collection appropriate for winter and the trans-seasons, straying just far enough away from black to obtain maximum impact.
It was so beautiful, I'd wear every single piece of this collection. I know we were taught until we were black and blue in the face at university that no judgment or critique should use the references 'I like it because it's beautiful', but I'm going to. There I said it. Okay, maybe I could justify further. All I'll say is it was the perfect recipe between masculine and feminine, many varied silhouettes were covered, he showed us waists and then gave us box shapes too but it was all in the textures that bound it all together.
Signature Van Noten, signature myself.