Tuesday, 29 September 2009
Australian Model Watch
Abbey Lee Kershaw, known in the industry simply as Abbey Lee, is the 22 year old Australian model from Melbourne taking the Spring Summer 10 shows by storm. Her stellar turn on no less than 32 runways (and we're only up to Milan Fashion Week) for some of the biggest names in fashion, has shown her diversity and grace on the world stage.
It's exciting to watch a career like hers develop from humble work here in Australia, to exclusive contracts internationally. Creative directors at Gucci believed her to be such an iconic success that they booked her exclusively for their AW08 show, and she couldn't walk for any other design house during Milan Fashion Week at the time.
Fresh Australian spirit is in full strength overseas at the moment, with Abbey Lee joining Myf Shepherd, Alice Burdeu, and Catherine McNeil at the international shows. They're taking the global fashion industry proudly in their stride, and we're behind them every step of the way.
Monday, 28 September 2009
My first roast chook
It's official. I spent the afternoon preparing to cook my first roast chook. Looking at the fruit bowl and witnessing an avalanche of oranges, I decided to use one to my advantage. I thought that if I combined the zest of an orange with my dairy free butter, I could use that to spread under the skin of the fresh chicken. It panned out as follows:
1) Pre-heat a fan-forced oven to 180C. 2) Grate the zest of an orange and place in a small bowl. 3) Add 1/12 tablespoons of Nuttelex (or any butter you desire) and stir to combine. 4) Using a butter knife, find the existing opening of the skin at the base of the chicken near the legs and spread the butter and orange mixture under the skin. 5) Use your hands to knead the butter as evenly over the chicken breast as possible. If there is any mixture left, rub over the whole chicken. 6) Place chicken on an oven tray and bake at 180C for 1 hour to start. 7) In the meantime, boil chat potatoes for about 15 minutes and strain from the water. Once cool to touch, slice half way through the potato multiple times over the surface. Sprinkle with a little salt. 8) Once chicken has been cooking for an hour, place potatoes around the chicken. 9) Peel carrots and once potatoes have been in the oven for about 10 minutes, add the carrots to the tray. 10) Cook the chook for a total of 1 hour and 35 minutes (potatoes for total 35 minutes and carrots for 25 minutes). The chicken is cooked when the meat is white. 10) Steam broccoli either in the microwave or over stove top just before serving. Enjoyment factor: experimentation beyond fun. Presentation: very rustic. Taste: Priceless.
Me & My Oxfords
I've been on the hunt since Christmas for the perfect pair of Oxford lace-ups and I have friends who can vouch for that too. This style of shoe is the perfect alternative to the ballet flat and I tend to get sore shins from wearing flats that don't have anything holding them to my foot or ankle. Hands up anyone else who suffers from the same problem!
English shoe-maker, Rupert Sanderson, has made a gorgeous pair of cream patent leather Oxfords that I've eyed in David Jones all year but the price tag has always held me back. Sienna Miller is a fan of this exact pair but she's at least got the bank balance to boot.
My shining moment came last Thursday when I was reading one of my favorite magazines, Australian InStyle, and saw a pair of woven leather Sportsgirl brogues. Cue the choir, they're fabulous!! The way they're cut to finish further down the foot so that they're more seasonal is just what I was looking for. And to all who knew me from many years ago, yes that's them in the photo and yes they're dusty pink. Shhh.
English shoe-maker, Rupert Sanderson, has made a gorgeous pair of cream patent leather Oxfords that I've eyed in David Jones all year but the price tag has always held me back. Sienna Miller is a fan of this exact pair but she's at least got the bank balance to boot.
My shining moment came last Thursday when I was reading one of my favorite magazines, Australian InStyle, and saw a pair of woven leather Sportsgirl brogues. Cue the choir, they're fabulous!! The way they're cut to finish further down the foot so that they're more seasonal is just what I was looking for. And to all who knew me from many years ago, yes that's them in the photo and yes they're dusty pink. Shhh.
Milan Fashion Week SS10
Jil Sander Spring Summer 10 couldn't appear more simple. But this typically pared back collection goes much deeper than the surface. The ideas behind the treatments take care and consideration, and the construction of the garments is paramount to the quality. The way the applications have been attached to the surface of the fabric is genius, and the idea to scrunch the sleeves from the top down is true Jil Sander innovation at it's best.
Frida Giannini at Gucci pulled right back on signature prints for the approaching season. She focused on intricate cut and seam work to create the appearance of prints instead, and introduced applied prints cautiously. Our recurring colour palette was on show again at Gucci and it worked as a sign of the careful times.
Demure is a word that comes to mind when it comes to the overwhelming use of white, gray and black on the SS10 runways. Sunshine on the wait list.
Friday, 25 September 2009
Hide and Seek Debate
It seems Prada forgot to have a conscious when it comes to their selection of models as well. These chosen models appear to have lost all shape in their face and some of their knees are wider than their thighs; it's frightening. There's more than a couple of things wrong with this situation. Thanks to the global access to images from the shows, there are young girls avidly watching these shows from home whom aspire to be like the models on the catwalk, and to achieve such a gaunt figure through starvation is incredibly dangerous to their developing bodies.
From a marketing perspective, many of the clients wealthy enough to afford designer fashion don't necessarily have bodies like these, and therefore, generally won't see themselves in the clothes on display. It's not a new concept though, and the designers and casting agents in my opinion, haven't had enough of a drastic backlash to this 'skinny model' situation to consciously sway the decision making process.
Glamour Magazine recently published 'plus-size' model, Lizzie Miller on the cover to cheers from around the globe. But the surprising thing is, not everyone is entirely impressed. It seems that the majority of readers opinion's centre around the fact that she's not really plus-size at all, and more of an average size. All I can say is that she's very brave to bare all on the cover, but good on her, because she's real. Memo to the fashion industry: take note.
Organic herbal tea
Calling all tea addicts. There's a new discovery in very tasty peppermint tea. It's available at Le Pain Quotidien which translates to The Bread Basket - http://www.lepainquotidien.com.au/
I once loved coffee, but haven't had a sip for years as it keeps me awake all night. I've been drinking tea any time of the day and night since then and was recently stopped in my tracks by an outstanding drop. I'm not sure where the leaves come from, but no. 5 must be tried and tested before the final verdict is given. Let me know what you think. No.5: remind you of another famous scent?
Burberry Prorsum closes 25th Anniversary of London Fashion Week
Burberry's spectacular close to the 25th Anniversary week of LFW was a roped and twisted affair. The gorgeous sheer colour palette combined with artistically draped chiffons and silks couldn't have been more appropriate for the coming Spring Summer season.
Creative director, Christopher Bailey developed the most ingenious tucks coming from trench pockets and re-worked the big shoulder trend from SS09 into a far less daunting and much more feminine style. Shoulder pads need not be required when tucked and twisted fabric can stretch across, creating an overall softer silhouette.
The front row was just as impressive. The likes of campaign star Emma Watson with famed photographer, Mario Testino, Mary-Kate Olsen, Gwyneth Paltrow, Liv Tyler, and Slumdog Millionaire couple, Freida Pinto and Dev Patel holding hands throughout the show, provided enough star power to rival the glitter falling from the ceiling during the show's finale. And surprise celebrity citing was Victoria Beckham, locked in her own pouting rivalry with American Vogue editor-in-chief, Anna Wintour.
Bailey stepped up to the Prorsum mark and drove Burberry forward by light years.
Tuesday, 22 September 2009
Paolo Nutini - Sunny Side Up
He's got a new single out, it's called Coming Up Easy and it's typically Paolo, with his raspy voice. I'm loving the reminiscent sound of Sitting on The Dock of The Bay that this song has to it, and it's a great follow up to his debut single, Candy, off his second album.
Paolo Nutini has been a favourite of mine for a few years now. He's Scottish, with Italian grandparents, hence his Mediterranean sounding name, and his voice is so distinct. He writes and performs his own songs and although hasn't become quite the household name in Australia, he's currently taking Europe by storm.
If you're wanting to hear more, have a look on youtube for him or become a fan on facebook and you'll never miss a new release or tour date again. I recommend New Shoes (such an appropriate title for my favourite song) and Last Request to familiarise yourself with his undeniably fantastic and unique music. "Grant my last request..."
Monday, 21 September 2009
25 Years of London Fashion Week
Maybe he reserved most of his signature prints for his capsule collection for H&M, but Matthew Williamson's Spring Summer 10 show in London still screamed his style, all over. I'm always intrigued after having visited London, that one of the country's most iconic designers always manages to come up with the most colourful and summery creations. Those Brits must be dying to capture a warm climate like Australia's and fashion is one outlet to play with when it comes to transforming yourself to a place you'd rather be.
This idea is something I've tried to do a lot of research into. Fashion doesn't have to be complicated, it can be the ideal way to lift your spirits and take your mind to another place. It's the first impression people get from you before you've spoken, and in a corporate scenario, you can use fashion to appear more powerful, successful or more conservative if you need to. At the other end of the spectrum, you can use clothes to give the impression you're more carefree, colourful, and fun. Fashion can make you fit in, or stand out from the crowd and this is what I love about London Fashion Week.
Vivienne Westwood presented her Red Label in LFW's 25th Anniversary Week that's on at the moment and she took her tried and tested techniques to produce an obvious Westwood Collection. Her fame stems from her ability in her youth to set her self apart from her peers and shock the average onlooker. There were no references to the Sex Pistols here, but her draped corset dresses and anglomania prints shouted Westwood loud and proud. Do the same. Build your wardrobe to be something of a reflection of your own style and wear your uniform with your head held high.
Friday, 18 September 2009
Food Experiment
There's one thing they do better in South Australia than anywhere else in the country, and that's a pastie. With that inspiration in mind, I decided to take what I had in the fridge and freezer and see what I could come up with as I went along. Tonight, I took a sweet potato peeled and diced, and placed it in boiling water for about 15 - 20 minutes. The boiling water contained vegetable stock and cumin. Then I set the oven to 180C and lined a baking tray. At this stage I also let a piece of frozen puff pastry defrost in the time that the sweet potato was boiling. Once the sweet potato was soft, I strained the water, returned it to the pot and added 1/2 cup of pumpkin kernels and other seeds, and a teaspoon of finely chopped tarragon. I stirred this mixture to combine all the ingredients and placed it in the center of the pastry. After folding the corners of the pastry to cover all the filling, I sprinkled more cumin over the top and pierced it roughly with a fork to let the steam escape. It only took about 25 minutes in the oven and then it was ready to eat. Healthy, hearty dinner is served.
Hide and Seek Debate
I'm weighing in to the 'skinny model' debate, and design duo Proenza Schouler clearly didn't read the memo. The more I scrolled through their Spring Summer 2010 collection held in NY yesterday, the more I wondered where the people wearing the garments were disappearing to.
Late last year, the Council of Fashion of Designers of America (CFDA) recently issued voluntary guidelines to curb the use of overly thin models. The guidelines in the 90's were any model 5ft 9 or taller, and between a US size 6 to 8. That's equivalent in Australia of size 10 to 12.
It's not a game of hide and seek, it's Fashion Week and we all, to some extent, care about fashion. Although some may not care about seasonal trends, we all wear clothes and make that dreaded decision in the morning of what to wear that day.
Modeling agencies, designers and magazine editors all have a role to play in this situation, and can make the choice to encourage healthier lifestyle habits for the models they're selecting. In the case of the Proenza Schouler show, I was involuntarily paying more attention to the malnourished and emancipated faces and legs than the clothes they were debuting. Not the reaction that the designers would appreciate, I'm sure.
But this is all in my opinion, I want to hear what you think...
Wednesday, 16 September 2009
New York Fashion Week SS10
Ok, now things are taking form for SS10 in New York. And Donna Karan is leading the way with waves over her hems, a technique stemming from her incredibly clever and simple style mantra that's been her staple for decades; the draped dress. Carolina Herrera also adds splashes of vivid colour to her palette with purple hues and graphic prints to break up this seasons obsession with all things grey...
Marc Jacobs genius forms graced the shoulders of geisha like models and it looks like there's a trend emerging with wave like ruffles rippling over the surface of his unique creations. And I know I may give the impression that I'm demanding more from these designers, but I had to stop and admire the complete simplicity in the aesthetic of Narciso Rodriguez, with complete appreciation for his plain white dress.
It's safe to say that judging by the New York SS10 Collections so far, the colours of the eminent season are officially grey, white and red. Design duo Badgley Mischka bottled these colours elegantly, with the ease and unrestricted design that summer demands. Take a bow NY.
Food
Speaking of lollies, the perfect taste of something sweet can be found in these meringues... If it's just a hit of sugar you need, or a gift for a friend, try these sugary confections (will make approximately 60):
In an electric mixer, combine 2 egg whites, 1 cup of caster sugar, half teaspoon vanilla, 1 teaspoon white vinegar, 1 teaspoon cornflour, 4 tablespoons boiling water, and beat on high for approximately 10 to 15 minutes until soft peaks form.
If making mini meringues, star tube onto a lined baking tray to the size of approximately a 20 cent coin. Bake on 140C for about half an hour, checking to see if they are dry to touch. If making a larger pavlova style meringue, spread mixture onto a lined baking tray and bake for 10 minutes on 150C and a further 50 minutes non 125C. This recipe is guaranteed to please...
Monday, 14 September 2009
New York Fashion Week SS10
It's one of my favourite times of the year. For the next month, New York, London, Milan and Paris grace us with daily shows from the worlds greatest designers.
It's Day Three in New York today and so far, there's been a disappointing display of the same old, same old most designers have shown the last three seasons. I'm always excited to see the colour palette dictated for the approaching season and again, it's citrus and lollies. Pastel seems to have made a significant impact this SS10 season and the silhouettes don't provide anything new for the imagination. I always look to the more adventurous designers at Preen, or Yigal Azrouel for new techniques applied to the treatment of their fabrics, and was sorry to discover that they've stayed pretty safe.
But it's early days and my enthusiasm is still there. And this situation only provides an opportunity to discard the negatives and take on the positives, applying them to your own wardrobe and seeing what you can create for yourself. BYO improvements...
Books
InVogue: 50 Years of Australian Style. It's bold, black, white and the perfect showcase for the thoroughly unique style that has graced Australian Vogue's pages for the past 50 years. With each chapter dedicated to the decades from 1959, the images tell a tale of how Australian designers and celebrities have evolved through these influential pages. I was lucky enough to be a part of the in-store Burberry launch with Vogue for this book last week, even came home to Sydney from a weekend away to my picture in the Sun Herald at the event.
I've turned over the cover and selected a few of the poignant images that I think show how diverse our style is in comparison to Vogue's international counterparts:
1 The 80's era of the sun, athleticism and the classic white tee are captured perfectly in this shot.
2 Primal instincts need not be vulgar, as the rugged environment in this shot compliments the elegance of the Australian designed garments and landscape prominent for the shoot.
3 Will the quintessential original style of Australian design duo Sass & Bide ever re-capture the mood that this shot suggests? They show in New York now and in my opinion, don't reflect on what is evident in this typical Sass & Bide style of feminine juxtaposed back with the unexpected.
It's a captivating book and these images are just a taste of what can be yours to keep, coffee tables are patiently waiting.
Sunday, 6 September 2009
Travel
The world's a fabulous place, and I haven't seen nearly enough in my opinion. I'd always dreamed of living in Paris and I spent November and December of 2006 renting a studio apartment in the 2nd arrondissment, the accompanying images show a small taste...
My trip also consisted of Scotland, London and New York and I loved every second of it. On holidays from university completing a Bachelor of Design, I was without a doubt in fashion heaven. The museums, galleries, boutiques, local streets and people in general all provided so much inspiration to bring home to Sydney and it was a time in my life I'll never forget. Till the next time...
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