Particularly proud of the purchases I made in Paris, London and New York on my travels, I'm biased to the designers showing on day four of Paris Fashion Week. My favourite black pencil skirt by Hussein Chalayan, wide leg linen pants by Dries Van Noten, Costume National heels and Sophia Kokosalaki straight leg pants have all contributed to my love of fashion. With every purchase, a little swell of pride in my slowly established portfolio.
Hussein Chalayan and Dries Van Noten show that they don't necessarily need to reinvent their aesthetic to still maintain relevance. A mash of prints at Dries Van Noten and a very minimal palette at Hussein Chalayan haven't changed, but it shows that they know their customer and that old rule: if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Ennio Capasa at Costume National also stuck to detailed cuts and lack of print but I'm biased. At least he was one of the only designers this season to use chocolate brown to break up the black, white and gray also shown in his Spring Summer 10 collection.
Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy and Karl Lagerfeld stole the day. At Givenchy, harem pants may have dominated the High Street chain stores for the past two seasons, but this succinct and perfect delivery reinvents the trend and presents it in a refreshing new way. Lagerfeld designs for his own label as well as Chanel and Fendi, but for the first time, this designer has referenced himself at Chanel. His high white collared blouses and shorts may be far enough removed to not instinctively suggest Chanel, but there's definitely a whisper.
At the end of the day, we should aim to approach fashion with the same vivacity as Sonia Rykiel and smile in stripes. It's contagious.
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