Nicholas Ghesquiere never ceases to amaze me with his futuristic designs. He is totally transforming the fashion house Balenciaga, season by season, into the 22nd century before our very eyes. Although his execution of his collection is always tight, right down to the final detail, his extensive use of leather this season and not much else used other than mesh could limit the wearability of his SS10 collection. The gradual presentation of colours and silhouettes: black pants to gray, to colour then to skirts meant that the collection flowed well and concluded memorably.
Rochas was certainly designed to be further away from the body, and with day wear in mind. This is the fashion house that under Olivier Theyskens direction, transformed the dramatic Gothic evening gown. What a difference in styles between Theyskens and Marco Zanini (in his second season for Rochas). Think Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday.
The revived french fashion house, Balmain is under the design guidance of Christophe Decarnin. He was responsible for the glittery and high, sharp shouldered trend of the past season. His style is still considerably the same, with more of the caveman treatment applied to fabric choices than his disco ball references previously. The colours this season are murky, and the hems are all ragged. But in my opinion, his market is getting younger with this collection, and we'll just have to wait and see how it takes off.
In any case, these designers have it right... Like every good story, as an audience, we need an introduction, body and conclusion.
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