Day Two in Paris and there's already major controversy. Maison Martin Margiela is in incredible trouble, as questions in the industry are raised over who is designing the collection, and if it is Mr Margiela himself. With his most recent collection, I was trying to make sense of the delivery of the garments with difficulty. It seemed to be presented in a very thoughtless, incoherent way. MMM = MIA.
Lanvin's embellished and draped jumpsuits and dresses led the way, followed closely by Vivienne Westwood's 'Get A Life' campaign in a close race done spectacularly in her unique way... From Westwood's show, I took it that she has a thing against consumerism as she took elements from running a marathon and going to the shops, twisting them into fabulous fashion with colour, drape, cut and fit all transforming the everyday rituals. On second thought, running a marathon isn't everyday fair, but it's certainly a challenge and the designer set herself one, winning in every sense.
Also in the race was Yohji Yamamoto's black, white and gray collection. It's still clever in it's execution, but he show's similar pieces every season. Yamamoto knows his customer and doesn't quit while he's ahead, I'll give him that. But falling behind, was Isabel Marant. Gone were her classic staples replaced with colourful, fringed garments and slouchy boots similar to what was shown at Maison Martin Margiela (but we won't go there again).
Top of the podium was John Galliano at Dior of course. It's Paris Fashion Week and he's evoked a sultry demeanor with slip dresses and lingerie inspired pieces peaking out from under trench references. He may be semi-recycling an idea he started with couture, but it works as a collection and is more wearable than in the past with corset restrictions banished. Day two race over, day three please.
No comments:
Post a Comment