London AW10 | Day One

A game of noughts and crosses was played up the models legs at Henry Holland's House of Holland show, and the games didn't stop there. It was a bedtime story played out across slogan t-shits (his claim to fame) and onesies with strips or patters played out. But the biggest literal reference came in the form of the underwear as outwear trend sweeping the industry. He chose to bump the lingerie feminine and go for the elastic labels adjoining the briefs we love. If Calvin Klein can make his name even more worthy blazoned just above belt loops on many men the world over, why can't Holland?
Charles Anastase took deconstructed sophistication to a new level with pop colours running a muck all over his pristine tailoring. Emerging initially as a very conservative collection for anyone in need of a cream overcoat, things got interesting when he gave a very blue dress some very red tights. Tim Burton’s Alice in Wonderland premiers in theatres March 4 and perhaps Anastase took his inspiration from Alice’s’ wardrobe, giving it a 2010 twist. The most impressive look came in the form of a hounds tooth jacket complete with belt; however styling with a facemask kept your imagination guessing. The same jacket pops up in white later, draped effortlessly over the shoulders of a caramel coat, but the look is according to the zeitgeist when it would slip seamlessly into our growing collections at home already. Charles Anastase’s client is one who appreciates the finest tailoring, but appreciates a wicked sense of humour too. She can wear the yellow Peter Pan collar to prove it.
Hoods and prints came in all forms and patterns at Duro Olowu, however this very small but fabulously executed collection gave me a name I'll watch out for in the future. I love the coats and capes dotted throughout all the colours and floral chiffon brings movement to an otherwise structured and heavy winter selection.
Taking the cake for giving models very bushy mono's though, is none other than Unique for TopShop, trecking through the bush with antlers and all. Take away all the wild hair and headpieces though, and you've got yourself a wearable and adapdable slate of garments to work with. Long chunky knits or dainty little blazers are staples to sharpen even the most sensible of outfits. Have you seen the petition to bring TopShop to Australia? Where do I sign up.