Saturday 23 January 2010

Paris Menswear AW10






No one does theatrics like the one and only Jean Paul Gaultier. I can't get enough of his vintage boxing arena and perfectly bruised boxers in their quilted leather and hooded suits. The concepts behind his design approach show the diversity of his imagination, give me those giant knitted jumpers and scarves this coming winter, I don't care that it's menswear.
Louis Vuitton sent out perfectly polished men with fabulous tan overnighters or backpacks, and after viewing all the other Paris shows, I noticed that ankle boots are definitely la mode. I've never been shy to admit my adoration for RM Williams ankle boots, and it appears that the menswear designer in Paris heard me.
More evidence of this trend is shown at Viktor & Rolf, where they seem to have taken their inspiration from the late Yves Saint Laurent and his dark rimmed glasses. The legendary designer was always immaculate in his suits and signature specs, we lost one of the greats the day he passed away. I bought a pair of vintage Yves Saint Laurent black silk peep toe stilettos the day after he died, like it was sign I was meant to remember his memory.
So it's only right that the menswear Yves Saint Laurent show developed a theme for the sophisticated robe and how to apply it to ready-to-wear. The colour palette stuck to roughly only three colours, but the articulation of the luxury behind the label couldn't have been shown more clearly.
Rick Owens AW10 collection suggests the fabulous draped style that he's become famous for in womenswear. His men wore glorified knitted loin cloths, starkly contrasting with their famous combat boots that a Rick Owens show would be lost without. An Owens jacket always demands attention, and his androgynous approach to design ensures his niche controls the elements of what's necessary.
L'autome/Hiver a Paris, sil vous plait.

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