Sunday 24 January 2010

Paris Menswear AW10





Excuse me, where's Paul Smith, Missoni and Calvin Klein? I haven't seen their menswear collections yet. And I really, really think we need to see their take on menswear this season.
Raf Simons might have taken a great leap of faith wrapping his men in cleverly cut skirted jackets and knits, but for something so unfamiliar to Australian streets, the colours and textures all actually make it work. I know you'll tell me it'll never fly, but from a fashion forward perspective, all the winning elements are there.
The oh so cool young men at Hermes are classic and chic, perfectly set for university on the left bank. Sending out perfected knits with their famous scarves is a formula that equals success, and the corded and relaxed fit of the trousers reflects a youthful sensibility that keeps this otherwise safe collection from failing.
Dunhill gave us very well tucked in school boys in those double breasted suit jackets, but perhaps gave the meaning ‘pull your socks up’ a little too much emphasis here. It may just be a styling technique but I don’t really think it will take flight. With evidence of the naughtiness that the name might suggest, hip flasks slung low on the hips and finally, with all the class and aristocracy of Mr Bond himself, the socks were down again and bow-tied gentlemen ruled the school.
And Dior Homme stayed true to their very successful set of rules when they showed sandy, black and white block pieces featuring cowl necks and cropped hemlines. This is why they rule the menswear school of fashion and it's nice to see that since Heidi Silmaine, boys in tight, tight pants no longer dictate the playing field.
Straight A's.

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